Vancouver Island the West

Tom enroute to Tofino

Leaving the North we returned south towards Nanaimo and had a well deserved night in a sadly rather smelly Hotel. It smelled as though a troupe of large wet dogs had slept on the couch which was probably not too far from the truth.

The night ended without suffocation and we headed west towards Tofino and Ucluelet. A quick stop at the Goats on the Roof at Coombs to see the goats obviously but more importantly to get some cheese, cold meats, good bread, Tapenade, Hommus and some fresh fruit and salads to help fortify us for our travels.

Tofino and Ucluelet are located on the wild west coast of Vancouver Island and are well known for wildlife, whale watching, weather, walking, wild coastlines, wet forests and surfing. We were not there for surfing as we did not have full length thermal wet suits – the standard gear of choice for the dedicated BC surfer. We were there for everything else though and it was – again – a highlight of our trip.

Ucluelet Dock

We camped at Ucluelet with a nice view of the harbor and its small armada. The camp was visited through the day – and night - by a Mule Deer doe and its babes. Some birds were also about; most notably a decent flock of Townsends Warblers with a few Yellows keeping them company.

Tofino View

We decided on a Whale watching trip from Ucluelet with Jamie’s Whaling Station primarily for financial reasons despite the fact that both sea otters and Tufted Puffins were decidedly less common than they were around Tofino. At any rate neither the kids nor me had any reason to be disappointed about our choice. The trip was fantastic. First stop a large pod of Orcas – a transient group – their fins protruding proudly above the waves. They would submerge for a few minutes and then return. Usually the huge triangular fin of the male would signal their return before the loud exhale from their blowholes. A few Harbour Porpoises also gave some brief but excellent views; one individual in particular showed his entire body as it pierced through the side of a wave. 

Ready for Whaling

Would you believe 'Thar she blows'?

See? Sea Lions

Steller's Sealions

A single large Humpback was the next cetacean on offer and it delivered a characteristic tail fluke as a signal for our departure. Three – possibly four - Grey [Gray?] Whales slowly rolled through the waves closer to shore. The kids, despite the generous movement of the ocean, were delighted, especially Matthew who claimed he never thought that he would see a whale!

A few birds, Brandts Cormorant, Pigeon Guilemots, Rhino Auklets and Common Murres were seen as was a large group of Steller’s Sea Lions that languished on a rock platform. Two Californian Sea Lions swam across our bow as we returned to the harbor no doubt seeking easy meals from the trawlers.

Some useful advice from the Ucluelet Aquarium

Tom touching very cold water

Seastar

The theme of sea life continued as we visited the Ucluelet Aquarium, a very good little setup that displayed and interpreted local sea life in a variety of small aquariums and touch tanks. The creatures on display are apparently returned to the sea and replaced regularly such that they never get too angry about their loss of liberty and attack the hands that touch or feed them.

Long Beach

We took a few short walks along various sections of the Wild Pacific Trail and we walked wooden walk ways in sections of the Pacific Rim National Park’s Rainforest Trail. We walked also a little way along Tofino’s Long Beach. Long Beach is a little like beaches back home in that it has some sand. It also has, like much of the BC coastline, large chunks of timber such that many visitors spend time making teepees or similar or cages out of them. 

Smiling on th e rocks - clearly at the beginning of a walk

Pacific Trail View

One thing that we did not have in Tofino was weather, bad weather that is. It stayed agreeable warm and sunny for our entire visit. The nights were cool and sometimes foggy and, as a result, the fog horns sounded all night warning vessels away from the rocks while the still blinking lighthouses remained invisible. 

Another Pacific Trail View

Coastline near Ucluelet

One last highlight for the memory banks; Tacofino – an excellent little van selling big stuffed fish Burritos and, as their name sort of suggests, Tacos.